EVO CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT

1. Loosen the clutch cable: Loosen the clutch cable by whichever method applies to that clutch from the table above.

2. Position bike: Stand the bike in an upright position.

3. Remove derby cover: Remove derby cover bolts sequentially as not to warp the cover and mark its position so that it can be reinstalled in the exact position.

4. Check diaphragm spring attitude: For the evo clutches through 1989, check diaphragm spring attitude. First, loosen the locknut in the middle of the clutch hub. With a hex wrench, turn the adjuster out until there is no pressure on the diaphragm spring. Then lay a straightedge across the face of the spring and the spring should be within .010 in. of flat. If it is bowed outward (convex), move the adjuster plate to the position of next greater compression. If the spring is dished inward (concave), move the adjuster plate to the next hole position of less compression.

If a plate adjustment is required, remove the 4 bolts ½ turn at a time each to prevent hub and adjuster plate damage. Reposition plate and, using purple Locktite (222), reinstall bolts in a crosswise pattern to 6.5-8 ft-lbs. torque.

5. Adjust clutch:

For the 4 speed evo clutch, position the release lever 13/16 inch from the tower on the transmission cover with the adjuster screw. Tighten the locknut.

For all newer evo clutches, turn the hex adjuster in until contact is made, then back out ¾ th of a turn. While holding the hex adjuster in place, tighten the locknut.

6. Check primary fluid and reinstall derby cover:

Check the primary fluid level and reinstall the derby cover. If the large O ring doesn't wish to remain in place, use either Hylomar or wheel bearing grease to hold it in place. It is always a good idea to twist the cover 30 degrees left and right to asssure that the O ring is in place or to get it in place.

Reinstall the derby cover bolts sequentially to 7-9 ft-lbs. torque (96 inch-lbs.).

7. Adjust handlebar lever: Adjust the handlebar lever to the looseness specified above. If there is insufficient slack here, you will wear out your throw-out bearing.

If you break off the handlebar lever: Usually, there is enough of a stub to continue to use the clutch; at least for first gear. If there is not, there are four options:

1. Attach a vise grip to the stub and utilize the clutch.

2. Jam a wide screwdriver into the gap between the clutch lever housing and the clutch lever to actuate the clutch.

3. Cut clutch cable and operate as below (not recommended).

4. Shift without a clutch as discussed below.

If you break the clutch cable: You have two options:

1. You can remove the clutch cable outer sheath at the spot where the sheath enters the part that screws into the transmission (5 speed) or where the sheath enters the adjusting screw (4 speed). Leave yourself a few inches of cable protruding and attach a vise grip lengthwise to the cable near where it protrudes. To actuate the clutch, turn the vise grip 90 degrees on its longitudinal axis. This is somewhat awkward and best used for first gear only.

2.Shifting without a clutch: Synchronized transmissions shift reasonably well without a clutch above first gear. To proceed without a clutch, I try never to stop, but if stopping, turn the engine off with the kill switch. To start, push the bike to get it moving and jump on before you hit the starter button. Start the bike, accelerate until it is barely time to shift and while neither accelerating or decelerating shift to the next gear. Downshift similarly.

EVO clutch removal, disassembly, inspection and reinstallation requires specialty tools and the specific manual for that clutch.